Their Hearts Belong to Vienna

Quite literally: Within Vienna’s Augustinerkirche, visitors will find the Herzgruft—a crypt containing 54 hearts of Hapsburg royalty spanning three centuries (the hearts are contained in urns). So while the Kaisergruft beneath the Capuchin church holds the bodies of the monarchs and their relatives (some buried in massive and elaborate sarcophagi), the hearts are located here. And in the catacombs below Stephansdom you will find the copper pots containing the Hapsburgs’ innards. The pots were filled with alcohol and sealed. But as a guide told me, two years ago one of those pots broke and “it smelled really bad.”

I can’t even imagine.

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